To send us your photos, comments, suggestions or tips, email mailbox@voguepatterns.com

June Smart writes—

In response to Linda Bucklin’s “Fitting Issues” mailbox letter in the recent issue of your magazine: Please order the Full Busted?, Palmer/Pletsch DVD. I found it to be wonderful, with instructions for altering many styles. The alterations taught in this video eliminate the shortened front length of the garment in the bodice, caused by the overall length of the body being longer in front than in back. The old phrase “the shortest distance between two points is a straight line” always comes to my mind. The distance from high shoulder to back waist is often a fairly straight line. But the distance from the high shoulder to front waist can be much longer on the full-busted body. Palmer/Pletsch has shown the way to eliminate this problem and achieve a bottom hemline that is truly horizontal. This DVD has already brought much satisfaction to my sewing.

Marjorie Leoschke writes—

l have been sewing and subscribing to Vogue Patterns longer than I care to admit. I even had some university courses in the craft where I learned couture techniques and how to refurbish a man’s suit and dress shirt to look respectable. Despite all this, I am faced with a problem I can’t solve except for doing it the hard way through trial and error in a muslin garment. That is, how to handle a fabric with a strong diagonal pattern in its weave. I have a gorgeous piece of wool with such a weave that was purchased from a designer’s workshop that went out of business. It is 36" wide and 3 yards long. I would like to make a lined jacket with it, but, because so many patterns state you should not use fabrics that have a diagonal pattern, I don’t know what pattern to choose and would hate to make a mistake with this fabric. In all my searching through the literature I have not found any information about when and when not to use diagonals. I assume the pattern must have few seams but I still would like to know more about what is the best type of pattern to use in this case. Can you give me some explanation and examples?

Response from The Editors—Without seeing your fabric, we are a little hesitant to give advice, however we can give a deeper explanation of our “diagonal” note. When we state: “Not suitable for obvious diagonals,” it is to caution that the diagonal pattern (whether it’s a stripe or motif that has a strong diagonal pattern) can not be matched at the seams. This note was not intended for twill weaves (such as denim and men’s suiting) where the diagonal is subtle. The vast majority of designs have shaped or curved seams to fit the body; you will never be able to match a diagonal at a shaped seam. Therefore, you need to decide if the diagonal of your fabric is strong enough to worry about matching. If you feel it needs to be matched, select a style with very little shaping (a boxy style) and very few seams. Avoid a center back seam, princess seams and darts. Match the center front, and let the side seams fall where they may. If you select a jacket with lapels, you should think about changing the grainline (on the left or right) for a more pleasing (and balanced) appearance. We hope this helps.

Fancy Tanner writes—

I am one of your loyal, longtime subscribers who love the magazine. It’s the only magazine I subscribe to. I usually read every word and look at each edition multiple times and save them for years. I am rarely compelled to write, but I have to say the new updated magazine is great! The only minor complaint I have is that I could not fi nd your email address in the Mailbox section. Maybe I missed it. While I have no real intention of using stretch tulle, I read with interest the article, “Quick Tips for Mastering Stretch Tulle” in the Dec. ’10/Jan. ’11 issue, since it never hurts to learn new stuff. Just days after that, I found myself using that sleeve hemming technique on completely different material. I often make lightweight, unlined jackets in wool, cotton knits or fl eece. When wearing these, I always find it difficult to get them on and off, as my shirt sleeve and the jacket sleeve stick to each other like Velcro®. This happens with ready-to-wear jackets too. The hemming technique recommended on these patterns is usually topstitching, which sometimes doesn’t look that great to me. I used the sleeve pattern to cut sleeve linings (just slightly larger for wearing ease) in a smooth lining fabric. I put a narrow band of interfacing inside the hemline and seamed [the sleeve and lining] on the hemline, then stitched [the underarm seam of the sleeve and lining] all in one, and turned and set the sleeve into the jacket (as directed in the article). This made several improvements to my finished jacket! 1) The sleeves look great, with a nice smooth hem. 2) Easy on and off. 3) A little extra warmth in the arms, where I often need it. Thanks for a great magazine.

Joanne Newman writes—

Just wanted to let you know how much I enjoy your facebook page! Recently a discussion on the Koos coats resulted in a request for me to post pictures of the Koos coat I have made. Is there a way I can post on the Vogue facebook page or do I send you the pictures to post?

Response from The Editors—There are two ways you can post a photo to the Vogue Patterns facebook page. 1) Tag Vogue Patterns in a photo you already have on your facebook page, or 2) Write/post a comment on the Vogue Patterns wall and attach a photo by clicking on the photo icon under the comment box and uploading a photo. We also invite our readers to send in photos of their creations for our What Are You Sewing? page. You can email them to us at: mailbox@voguepatterns.com.

To send us your photos, comments, suggestions or tips, email mailbox@voguepatterns.com


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